Lauriane CHONCHON PhD defense

Understanding the formulation of a powdered solution and optimization for industrial applications in cosmetics
Understanding the formulation of a powdered solution and optimization for industrial applications in cosmetics

Organic Chemistry & Interfaces (COrInt) team

Abstract
This CIFRE thesis aims to overcome the technical barriers associated with the large-scale production of an innovative cosmetic product: the evolutive powder. This hybrid material, composed of a hydrophobic mineral powder enriched with a liquid phase, transforms into a moisturizing treatment when applied to the skin. The originality of this work lies in the novelty of the product and in the multidisciplinary and the multi-scale approach used. The study combines the analysis of mineral powders (SEM imaging, powder rheology) and the analysis of a simplified model system, liquid marbles, using tensiometry, high-speed imaging, and interfacial rheology tools. The final product, developed on both a laboratory and semi-industrial scale, was characterized using advanced rheological measurements (SAOS and LOAS).
The results show the major influence of hydrophobic treatment on the flow properties and on interfacial organization of the powders. Small-scale production trials enabled the formulation to be optimized, while upscaling led to the identification and adjustment of critical process parameters. This work has thus provided the company with concrete solutions for the development and sustainability of the manufacturing process for the evolutive powder on a semi-industrial scale, while opening up new scientific perspectives on complex powder/liquid systems.

Jury
Patrick Richard, Directeur de recherche, Université Gustave Eiffel, Nantes / Reporter
Thierry Ruiz, Professeur, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Montpellier / Reporter
Cécile Le Floch-Foueré, Professeure, STLO, INRAe, AgroCampus de Rennes / Examiner
François Rioual, Chercheur, FRISE, INRAe, Paris Saclay / Examiner
Sophie Tomasi, Professeure, ISCR, Université de Rennes / Examiner
Véronique Vié, Maître de conférences, IPR, Université de Rennes / PhD Director
Fabienne Gauffre, Directrice de recherches, ISCR, Université de Rennes / PhD Director
Lucas Vallée, Responsable innovation, Technature, Brest / Supervisor
Arnaud Saint-Jalmes, Directeur de recherche, IPR, Rennes / Supervisor
Loïc Lemiègre, Maître de conférences, ENSC, Rennes / Supervisor

Contacts
Fabienne Gauffre, fabienne.gauffre@univ-rennes.fr
Véronique Vié, veronique.vie@univ-rennes.fr